Pain In The Ass + Soul Satisfying = Tamales!
If you have an extra 8-10 hours and want a show stopper for a party, holiday, or just to stick in the freezer for a last minute future dinner, read on. Tamales (my version) consists of four parts: pork, salsa, husks, and the masa dough. All together, each when done with peace and love, come together magically.
The Pork:
Liberally season a pork shoulder (bone in) or pork butt with salt and black pepper. Put it in a heavy pot, preferable enameled cast iron, with one white onion, chopped, half head of garlic (don’t peel it – just through the whole cloves in), and 3 bay leaves, fresh if possible. Fill with cold water until the top of the pork is covered. Bring to a boil, then turn to low, cover, and let it cook for about 5-6 hours until it shreds when touched. Do not boil it as that will make it tough and dry. The French call it “mijote” (mee-zjoe-tay). The occasional bubble that rises to the surface. When done. Remove from the pot and let cool until you can pull it apart without crying. Pull off any fat and don’t shred it too fine. Think small bite-sized chunks. Strain and keep the liquid for the dough!The Husks: Buy dried corn husks, two packages. Put them in a large bowl and cover with hot water. Add a plate on the top and a weighted bowl to keep the husks fully submerged for a few hours.
The Salsa: Red or green, your choice. Purists would say red with pork and green with chicken, but this is my take and salsa verde is one of the greatest things on earth. Set your broiler to high. Peel the paper husk off of 8 medium sized tomatillos. Get half of a medium sized white onion. One or two jalapenos. And 2 cloves of garlic – unpeeled. On a sheet pan toss everything in a trace amount of oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the pan under the broiler at the furthest distance away from the flame. Let it all cook for about 4-6 minutes. I like mine to actually start to burn a little. Pay attention to the garlic – don’t let it burn. Using tongs flip everything and repeat on the other side. Working in two batches pulse in a food processor with half bunch of cilantro (peel the garlic before pureeing). Use a spatula to get any juicy stuff off the pan and into the processor. NOTE – if you want it mild use 1 jalapeno and scrape out the seeds before adding to the food processor. If you want some heat, use 1 jalapeno with the seeds. If you want it good use both with seeds. Add everything, when pulsed, to a bowl and stir to make sure two batches are mixed together. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
The Masa: You will do this twice! Buy quality masa (simply put, very fine cornmeal with other minerals and stuff added). Plain cornmeal will not work. If you live in a Latino area, or can find a Latino market, you may be able to buy quality pre-made masa dough from a company that makes tortillas. If not, you have to make the dough yourself. Even high-quality store bought will not be in the same ballpark is homemade, so just do it. Again, quality dried masa is the key. Put 3-1/2 cups of masa in a bowl, and add about 2 cups of the reserved pork liquid, and mix with a wooden spoon to re-hydrate. It should look like crumbs, not a batter. In a mixer (like a Kitchen-Aid) with a paddle, whip 12 ounces of lard with 2-1/2 teaspoons of baking powder and 2 teaspoons of salt until it is light and fluffy, scraping down once or twice – about 1 minute. Add half of the masa mix scraping down the side. Start it on low and work up the speed. Add the rest and whip on high for 1 minute. If it is too thick and another ½ cup of the pork liquid. It should be smooth and pliable like cookie dough, but shouldn't crack or crumble. You should be able to roll a pinch into a ball that holds its shape. Taste it and adjust for salt and pepper. TIP – if you roll a small ball it should float in a cup of cold water.
Build: Start and assembly line station, left to right: husks, masa dough, shredded pork, salsa, empty sheet pan on the right. Take a husk, shake it dry, and place in your left palm. Place about ¼ cup of dough in the husk at the front right edge (closet to you). You want it uniform thickness and about 4”x4” square. I think using a “pallet knife” is easiest (think narrow, metal, rounded tip, cake frosting spatula). Put a few bites of pork in the row down the middle of the dough. Add a spoonful of salsa. Rolls in from the edge with the dough. You want the edges of the masa to meet like a log, you don’t want a spiral. The naked edge of the husk should complete the rolling process, then fold the bare part, the triangular tip end of the husk, under the roll and place on the sheet pan folded and seam side down. Repeat about 70 more times.
Steam: In a large and deep pot place a steamer basket, or upside down metal bowl and is nearly the same size as the pot’s diameter. You need to steam these, not boil them. Put about an inch of the reserved pork liquid (or water) in the pot. Start lining up the tamales, tight, should to shoulder, open side UP. Start and the outside of the pot and work your way to fill in the middle. You need the steam to come up between the tamales so stacking them horizontally won’t work. When they are all in, put the lid on, put it on the stove, on high, and bring to a boil. As soon as it boils turn it down to medium-low. You want a steady steam for 75 to 90 minutes. Keep an eye on the pot. If you don’t see steam check to make sure the liquid hasn't all evaporated. Add a little more if needed. They are done when the husk peels away from the dough easily and cleanly. Let them cool for about 30 minutes in the pot with the lid on. Then, lay them on sheet pan to cool completely.
